XC XY XD XP Falcon drum in disc rear brake up grade

REAR DRUM in DISC BRAKING SYSTEMS

ZK Fairlane with disc rear upgrade including drum brake park brake built in

The RRS Advantage

The RRS Drum In Disc system means you get the best of both worlds, beautifully made, vented rotor disc brakes, and drum brakes that allow no fuss hook up to your existing hand brake assembly.

The versatile modular design of the RRS disc brake rear conversion will work with all Ford 9" differentials and wheel sizes 14" to 20". Different baking plates rotor sizes means if you have a Ford 9" you easily upgrade your rear brakes. The axle bearing to axle flange relationship is vital for correct calliper to disc alignment. Multiple spacers are supplied by RRS to correct alignment. RRS supply custom backing plate to line up with your diff flange bolt pattern.

Ford 9" drum in disc rear brake upgrade backing plate showing cable mount

Match the your wheel size and front brake size, then identify your axle flange end. Without changing your handbrake cable you can upgrade your rear drum brake to disc, match your front brake stopping and improve the performance, safety and reliability of your classic.

RRS RD1 rear brake upgrade kit drum in disc giving you the best of both worlds disc brake performance and using your existing park brake

TO SUIT 14"OR 15" WHEELS

The RRS Advantage

The RD1 kit is designed to work with 14",15" original rims.

The RD1 balances perfectly with the RRS phase1 front brake system to have you stopping 40% better than stock.

RD1 kit specifications

• 11-inch/285ml RRS rotors

•Single piston silver calliper including all attaching hardware

•Banksia style park brake

RRS RD2 rear brake upgrade kit drum in disc giving you the best of both worlds disc brake performance and using your existing park brake

TO SUIT 16"TO 20" WHEELS

The RRS Advantage

The kits are designed to bolt on without any modifications to STANDARD Ford 9" axle housings. If the axle housing has been modified, such as: narrowed, fitted to a non factory application or has after market axles fitted.

RD2 kit specifications

• 12.4-inch/315mm RRS rotors

•Single piston red calliper including all attaching hardware

•Banksia style park brake

RRS RD3 rear brake upgrade kit drum in disc giving you the best of both worlds disc brake performance and using your existing park brake

The RRS Advantage

Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards #106 approved stainless steel braided brake lines & fittings plus all attaching hardware .

RD3 kit specifications

• 12.4" 315ml RRS rotors

•Dual piston RRS "Cobra" billet calliper including all attaching hardware

•Banksia style park brake

TO SUIT 17"TO 20" WHEELS

RRS bolt on drum in disc rear brake upgrade for Ford 9" axle housings

TO SUIT 16"TO 20" WHEELS

The RRS Advantage

• Precision laser cut and C.N.C. machined parts

• Laser cut brackets

• Use your factory original park brake cables

• Compatible with Ford 9" rear axle

RD4 kit specifications

• 13.7-inch/330mm RRS rotors

•6 piston  mini VTTR red calliper including all attaching hardware

•Banksia style park brake

RRS rear brake upgrade backing plate for big Ford
Backing plate (Big Ford new style ) disc brake upgrade plate
RRS rear brake upgrade backing plate for small Ford big bearing and standard for Ford 9"

How to Disassemble Ford 9 Inch Axles:

Brake Drum and Axle Shafts

The first step is to have the vehicle on jack stands and the wheels and tires removed. After you remove the brake drums be sure to set them aside in a clean and safe place. Remember to label the axle shafts according to the side in which they were installed, as they are different lengths. There is an access hole in the wheel flange that allows you to get a socket on the nut that holds the axle shaft and brake backing plate in place. The rest, as they say, is a piece of cake.

The access hole is in the wheel-mounting flange portion of the axle shaft and between two of the lug studs. Here you can see one of the nuts that retains the axle shaft. Four of these fasteners need to be removed so the axle shaft can be removed.

Use the correct-size deep-well socket or a shallow socket with an extension to reach in and loosen the four lock nuts nuts (a deep-well socket avoids the socket falling off the extension and having to fish the socket out from behind the axle flange). Notice that the brake hardware is in place.

Once the nuts are loose, reach behind the flange to retrieve them. (This backing plate has the brake shoes and hardware already removed.) You can leave the brake hardware in place or remove it. Keep in mind that removing the brake hardware prior to the axle shafts makes the job a little easier. Your overall plan is also a factor. If you have fresh brakes and are going to retain the drum style, then it makes sense to leave the brakes attached to the backing plates. If you want to remove all the rust and repaint the backing plates, the brake hardware needs to be removed.

The rectangular shaped steel plate under the nuts holds the axle shafts and bearings in the housing. Once the nuts have been removed, you can lightly pull the plate loose. It is still trapped on the axle shaft, but you need to make sure it is loose. Be careful because it may move around a little.

Use a slide hammer tool, such as this one, to pop the axle shaft loose. It’s a great tool to have in your workshop that costs about $70-150. You can use pry bars to dislodge the axle shaft, but be careful not to bend the plates. (Later, you’ll see how the bearing arrangement traps the plates on the axle shafts.) If you are going to re-use the bearings, the plates are also re-used. I strongly recommend replacing the bearings at the same time because it’s a minimal investment to ensure good performance.

Attach the slide hammer tool to the axle shaft wheel hub. The base of the puller slips over the wheel’s studs and the bolts secure the puller to the hub. A couple of quick pulls and the shaft should be loose.

Partially remove the axle shaft. Notice how the ball bearing traps the retainer plate on the axle shaft. The retainer ring is to the left of the ball bearing. This ring keeps the axle bearing on the axle shaft.

Once the axle shaft has been completely removed, inspect the bearing and seal surface. I recommend replacing the bearings for any rebuild, but if they are in good condition, you may get away with re-using them. But it’s a risk. This axle shaft uses the large ball bearing arrangement. This sealed-style bearing cannot be re-greased. You can see the wear mark from the seal. If yours has a groove, replace the shaft.

Remove the brake backing plates for cleaning and painting. (The brake lines should have already been removed from the wheel cylinders.) Lightly tap around the backing plates to remove them. They usually come off with little effort.

Once the axle shaft has been removed, look for the seal inside of the housing. This seal keeps the gear oil in the axle for ball bearing wheel ends. The tapered-bearing style of wheel ends do not use this seal as they share oil with the axle. Note that this axle flange shows signs of the original gasket and sealant. This needs to be cleaned off and prepped before re-assembly. The T-bolts can be pushed out now.

Remove the brake backing plates for replacement.  Replacing the brake backing plate with the new RRS A, B, C or D backing plate does require removal to the retainer plate unless you are servicing the axle bearings.

The ring has a significant press-fit, so it isn’t very easy to press off. Remember, this is holding the wheel on the vehicle, and you might have to destroy it. Centre punch on the ring in the middle of the unit acts as a guide for the drill.

Using a 1/4-inch bit drill partially into the ring making certain to center the hole. Being very careful, set the drill on a low-RPM setting and drill almost to the bottom. To avoid drilling too deep you can mark the desired depth on the bit with tape, but still stop and check often. If you drill too deep, you’ll actually drill into the axle shaft. If this happens, you need to replace the axle shaft because it creates a stress riser in a critical area, and the axle will probably break in this area.

Using a hammer and chisel, solidly strike the ring at the drilled section. If you support the other side of the ring with a block of wood you can hammer away.

Here you can see the slight crack in the retaining ring. This is all that is required to relieve the press fit. Now you can use a typical bearing puller tool and shop press to remove the retainer, bearing, and plate.

RRS Pty Ltd.

(61) 02 9907 3755

US 866 597 4662(TOLL FREE)

RRS PTY LTD

Unit 57/46 Wattle Rd

Brookvale NSW 2100

Sydney Australia

 

(61) 02 9907 3755

US Toll Free  866 597 4662

 

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RRS RD2 rear brake upgrade kit drum in disc giving you the best of both worlds disc brake performance and using your existing park brake
RRS RD3 rear brake upgrade kit drum in disc giving you the best of both worlds disc brake performance and using your existing park brake
RRS bolt on drum in disc rear brake upgrade for Ford 9" axle housings
Backing plate (Big Ford new style ) disc brake upgrade plate
RRS rear brake upgrade backing plate for big Ford
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Serious Gear
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XC XY XD XP Falcon drum in disc rear brake up grade
ZK Fairlane with disc rear upgrade including drum brake park brake built in
Ford 9" drum in disc rear brake upgrade backing plate showing cable mount
RRS RD2 rear brake upgrade kit drum in disc giving you the best of both worlds disc brake performance and using your existing park brake
RRS bolt on drum in disc rear brake upgrade for Ford 9" axle housings
Backing plate (Big Ford new style ) disc brake upgrade plate
RRS rear brake upgrade backing plate for big Ford
RRS rear brake upgrade backing plate for small Ford big bearing and standard for Ford 9"